Review: La Rochelle 2009 Moulin a Vent Beaujolais
- vinterest
- Aug 28, 2015
- 2 min read
The low-down: Beaujolais gets a bad rap - even from my wife, who associates it with her student days in Montreal. The culprit here is Beaujolais Nouveau, ready-to-drink and very affordable. At the other end of the spectrum are the Cru Beaujolais, and the king of those is Moulin a Vent (AOC), named after the windmill located on its hilltop. Its wines are the most suitable for ageing - up to 15 years we're advised, but people have recently enjoyed vintages as early as 1929! We opened up a 2013 Terres Dorrees Moulin a Vent in January of this year.
Olivier and Corinne Merlin are a husband and wife team that passionately grow about 12 ha of vines across Burgundy and Beaujolais that they first acquired in 1987. Their philosophy is based on a respect for the earth, and in that spirit 5-10% of the land is left uncultivated to rest for 4-5 years.
The blend is 100% Gamay - think of the weight/richness of the Rhone, but maturing towards gamey pinot flavors. This wine is produced from a 1.5 ha plot within Moulin a Vent. This set us back 26 Euros - retailing in the UK.
The take: Solid dark red appearance, with very light edges. The nose is sharp with notes of cherry and chalk. The attack is sour, savoury and acidic. Good tannins, some pleasant, chalk, very earthy. Interesting. The acidity is almost metallic initially. With time it settles into sweet and sour cherry.
In closing: Earthy and chalky, a product of nature - reflecting the Merlin's wine-making philosophy.
Rating: 7.5 out of 10.
Fact corner:
Country: France
Region: Moulin a Vent (AOC)
Producer: Merlin
Vintage: 2009
Grape: Gamay
Alcohol content: 13.0%
Serving temperature: n/a
Price range: Mid-range
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