Review: Thierry Mortet 2008 Gevrey Chambertin

The low-down: Gevrey Chambertin is one of the grand villages of the Cote de Nuits, Burgundy that produce some fantastic pinot noir known for their intensity, muscle, spice and ripeness. The village boasts the region's greatest number of old wines, which contribute to their wines' density and depth. Therefore, those who appreciate new world pinot noir (e.g. Australia, New Zealand, Oregon) form an affinity for Gevrey Chambertin sooner than other Burgundy villages.

We're incredibly excited to open this big bird produced by Thierry Mortet, son of the famed Denis Mortet (of Grand Cru Chambertin fame). Thierry follows an organic and minimal interventionist policy to his winemaking. The domaine, located in the center of the village, has 4 ha under vine, with vines up to 60 years old. The domaine was taken over by Denis in 1992.

Being a 2008 vintage it should be about ready to drink now.

The take: On appearance, a very light auburn. On the nose, the bouquet comprises on one hand tree sap, forest floor and moss and on the other cherry tart and blueberry. There are hints of varnish and polish too. On the attack, spicy and sour with no fruit or sugar. A nice sticky texture. With time cream and toffee. With the Magret de Canard we're having the match is perfect and the wine becomes earthier and more peppery with hints of menthol.

In closing: Unique, complex, quintessential Gevrey Chambertin.

Rating: 9 out of 10.

Fact corner:

Country: France

Region: Gevrey Chambertin (AOC)

Producer: Thierry Mortet

Vintage: 2008

Grape: Pinot Noir

Alcohol content: 13.0%

Serving temperature: 15-16°

Price range: Mid-range

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