Review: Audrey Wilkinson 2011 Verdelho

The low-down: My drinking partner R and I visited this picturesque Hunter Valley estate's cellar door on a cracking summer day in January this year.

The estate carries some history - with vines first planted in 1866. In total there are 20 ha under vine including semillon, chardonnay and shiraz.

Verdelho originates from Portugal, and historically accounted for 2/3rd of Madeira's mostly fortified wine production. Today barely 60 tonnes of verdelho are produced on the island. Fortunately, its demise in Portugal has been offset by its rise in Australia - from 20 ha under vine in 1992 to 1,500 ha a decade later. (Courtesy of Decanter, Richard Mayson). In addition, verdelho has undergone an evolution from an input into a fortified wine, into a standalone, table wine. Bravo!

This little beauty retails for <A$20 and is widely available.

The take: On appearance, very pale, light, transparent, but with viscous legs - at 13.5% it's one of the stronger whites around. On the nose, green apple, grapefruit and hints of toast. On the attack, very rich, acidic, effervescent with green apple and peach. With time, the verdelho reveals its distinct oily texture and minerally flavor. We note with surprise some grippy tannins for an unoaked white wine.

In closing: We love this white: multi-faceted and macho.

Rating: 9 out of 10.

Fact corner:

Country: Australia

Region: Hunter Valley

Producer: Audrey Wilkinson

Vintage: 2011

Grape: Verdelho

Alcohol content: 13.5%

Serving temperature: n/a

Price range: Mid-range

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