Review: Wynns 1972 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon
- vinterest
- May 13, 2015
- 2 min read
The low-down: Very pumped for this! This 43 year old wine is so old that:
- There's no alcohol count on the label
- The bottle size is 738 ml (could be a 25 fluid ounce bottle)
- It's the oldest wine we've ever opened
The Coonawarra region (which is an Aboriginal word meaning 'honeysuckle'), distinguished by its bright red soil (terra rossa), contains the southernmost vineyards in South Australia and its proximity to the chilly southern ocean and antarctic winds makes it ideal for growing cabernet sauvignon, along with chardonnay and shiraz. It's an isolated region 450 km from Melbourne and 380 km from Adelaide.
Wynns are a Coonawarra icon (largest - 1,000 ha under vine - and oldest holdings in the Coonawarra) that was founded in 1891 by John Riddoch and is part of the Treasury Wine Estates group. This "house" cabernet was first produced in 1954. In addition to this, Wynns offer their flagship cabernet "John Riddoch" at a whopping $150 price point.
There's an interesting article here in which they share:
Decades ago, the late Bill Redman said: ‘From 1890 to 1945 you can write failure across the face of Coonawarra.’ Most of the wine was distilled into brandy, and in the 1930s the South Australian government offered ex-servicemen in the area a bounty of four pounds and ten pence an acre to remove their vines and convert the land to dairy farming. The vineyards of Coonawarra were soon reduced to 121 hectares from 365 hectares at the turn of the century.
In 1951, a far-sighted David Wynn decided to buy the stone winery and cellars built by John Riddoch back in the 1890s. At the time, the Redmans were the only people making wine in Coonawarra – a Shiraz they sold in bulk to Woodley Wines, and later to Thomas Hardy, Reynella, Leo Buring, Yalumba and Mildara. With red wine sales booming in the sixties, these companies soon rushed in to buy land and plant vineyards. Two decades later, Coonawarra had established a reputation for producing Cabernets that rivalled the great reds of Bordeaux.
Interestingly this set us back only $60 ... probably because it's perceived to be past its peak ... let's see.
The take: The appearance is a clear, darkish, orangey-red. Quite heavy in the glass. The nose is musty, polished oak, smells like a port would. The attack is smooth, good acidity. No sugar. A little oxidized. Like port without the sweetness. A bit of fruit emerges in time. Multiple elements. The wine is definitely not faded or light. With time nutty-ness, ice cream, subtle fruit spice, raisins and salted caramel. So lively!
In closing: So lively! 43 years young!
Rating: 8.5 out of 10.
Fact corner:
Country: Australia
Region: Coonawarra
Producer: Wynns
Vintage: 1972
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
Alcohol content: n/a
Serving temperature: n/a
Price range: Premium
Comments