Review: Petaluma 1999 Riesling
- vinterest
- May 28, 2015
- 2 min read
The low-down: Brian Croser is well known as the father of Aussie riesling. He built Petaluma, founded in 1976 and based in the Clare Valley, into one of the leading brands in the Aussie wine industry before selling on to Lion Nathan in 2002. This is therefore one of the last vintages with his personal touch.
Brian subsequently left Petaluma and founded a new label, Tapanappa, in 2002 in partnership with Bollinger (the champagne house) and the Cazes family of Lynch Bages fame - also producers of Chateau Ormes de Pez - we'll be opening a 1995 of theirs shortly. He was awarded Decanter's Man of the Year in 2004.
This riesling, produced in 1999, was before the era of single vineyard positioning. However its grapes are sourced from the Hanlin Hill vineyard in Clare Valley that now produce Petaluma's single vineyard riesling (at A$28 a pop). Like Europe, the region's wine heritage began when Jesuit priests settled nearby and began producing sacramental wine, in 1848.
There is a tendency these days to dismiss riesling as being too sweet a wine - which is a shame as it produces a nuanced and long lived wine with successful examples in both Europe and Australia. If you aren't a fan of sweeter wines, then try some of the plenty of dry or "trocken" riesling out there!
We found this retailing in Australia for A$35 - not bad for a 16 year old riesling!
The take: A beautiful, rich, golden colour. Very transparent. The nose is open, generous with sweet peach, candied fruits, honeycomb even grapefruit; balanced by savoury notes of fried chicken (yes!), peat (like a whisky) and malt. As the wine develops it remains creamy, full, rich, deep, very complex. A floral bouquet with a hint of eucalyptus.
In closing: Full, rich, deep, complex!
Rating: 9 out of 10.
Fact corner:
Country: Australia
Region: Clare Valley
Producer: Petaluma
Vintage: 1999
Grape: Riesling
Alcohol content: 12.8%
Serving temperature: n/a
Price range: Mid-range
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