Review: Col D'Orcia 2011 Rosso di Montalcino

The low-down: Brunello di Montalcino, along with Barolo and the Super Tuscans, are Italy's most celebrated wines. Rosso di Montalcino, its younger brother, became a DOC in 1983. Still sangiovese, the lower oak-time produces a shorter shelf-life - to our delight as we can't wait forever for everything sangiovese!

Col D'Orcia are a Montalcino stalwart. They're a top quality grower with the third largest estate in Montalcino - 140 ha under vine (110 ha is for brunello) - located on the south-west border of Brunello di Montalcino.

There is a great Decanter article (February 2013 edition) on them. Some interesting insights via Decanter:

- In 1975 the family replaced wheat and tobacco crops to grow more sangiovese (thank god!)

- In 1988, to better understand sangiovese, they partnered with the University of Florence pioneering Sangiovese clonal research

- In 2008 and 2011, unlike most of the other large houses in Brunello, they opposed proposals to allow grapes other than sangiovese being blended into Brunello and Rosso

See if you can find their single-vineyard flagship Brunello: Poggio al Vento, released in only excellent vintages. They also produce a Super Tuscan cabernet blend: Olmaia.

We picked this up from Dubai Duty Free for 25 Euros. They are also selling a 2010 Olmaia and a 2006 Brunello (which we also have cellared).

Last year we opened a 2006 Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino and a 2001 Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino.

The take: Dark ruby with clear light edges. Light legs that take their time. The nose is initially chalk. With time spice, flowers, dried figs and polished oak. The attack is acidic. With time black fruits. Little tannins. The wine is ready to drink. The acidity settles and becomes deliciously creamy. Notes of coffee, spice, eucalyptus.

In closing: Creamy, spicy, polished.

Rating: 7 out of 10.

Fact corner:

Country: Italy

Region: Rosso di Montalcino (DOC)

Producer: Col D'Orcia

Vintage: 2011

Grape: Sangiovese

Alcohol content: 14.0%

Serving temperature: 18°

Price range: Mid-range

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