Review: Hauvette 2009 Les Hauteurs Prelude

The low-down: Today we shift gears to a very progressive (almost anti-establishment) French vigneron: Dominique Hauvette. She is known for challenging many of the French wine industry's traditions. In an interview with Louis Dressner she was quoted: "In my eyes the AOC system is the death of progress and evolution in French winemaking."

Naturally, this wine is an IGP, not an AOC, which means the requirements on the blend and the production process are less rigid. Dominique is famed for using concrete eggs (rather than wooden barrels) - which are still porous (allowing the wine to breathe during fermentation unlike steel vats), without affecting the flavour of the wine by using oak. In her opinion, adding oak to wine is like applying make-up. She is also a strictly organic producer.

This wine is grown in Languedoc Roussillon in the Cotes Catalanes IGP. The blend is 85% carignan and 15% grenache.

Dominique began by growing grapes in Cotes de Provence. She acquired the 8 ha plot that produced this Cotes Catalanes wine in 2008.

The take: On appearance, a dark ruby red. Not transparent. A strong nose - alcoholic, polished, perfumed with hints of candied fruits, sea salt, eggplant and game. On the attack, silky smooth, sour blackberry, the finish is a little quick. Good acidity, but overly strong and peppery.

In closing: Intriguing, smooth, a little too much bite.

Rating: 7 out of 10.

Fact corner:

Country: France

Region: Cotes Catalanes (IGP)

Producer: Dominique Hauvette

Vintage: 2009

Grape: Carignan, grenache

Alcohol content: 13.5%

Serving temperature: n/a

Price range: Mid-range

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