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Review: Faustino I 2001 Gran Reserva

vinterest
Dec 16, 2014
2 min read

The low-down: Over the coming months we'll be tasting a few of Rioja's leading producers including this Faustino I. Rioja stands out for its size and its affordability. The region has 62,000 ha under vine spanning seven rivers and three different administrative regions. Rioja has also experienced considerable growth over the last 20 years: from an annual production of half a million barrels to 1.2 million today. In addition, what we like about Rioja is that it offers the opportunity to access aged wines at affordable prices.

Indeed, we picked this up for E20 last month in Spain, impressively cheap for a 13 year old leading wine. The "Gran Reserva" indicates a minimum two years in oak and five years overall. Faustino, family owned, was founded in 1860 and is the largest private holder of vineyards across Rioja with 650 ha under vine. They distinguish themselves with their characteristic frosted bottles and portrait labels. This Faustino I 2001 has received numerous awards including topping Decanter Magazine's Top 50 Wines of the Year last year.

Riojas must be majority tempranillo, this has 86% along with graciano (9%) and mazuelo (5%) and is blended in the traditional style with American oak. These days progressive Rioja producers are more focused on reflecting the terroir of their grapes (and therefore minimizing external influences) by using tempranillo only and ageing in French oak.

The take: On appearance, dark, black cherry; orange edges show age; transparent. On the nose, initially red fruit, followed by chalk, pepper and gamey aromas. With time it becomes perfumed and aromatic. A strong attack for a thirteen year old wine: acidic, spicy, sour. Very smooth though. With time an abundance of notes come through: brine, cat pee, tobacco, cocoa, vanilla. It becomes very creamy with a hint of effervescence. However, it remains a little acidic for our liking. In addition, the myriad of flavours and notes just don't seem to blend together that well.

In closing: Stylistically unique, complex, however lacks integration.

Rating: 8 out of 10.

Fact corner:

Country: Spain

Region: Rioja (DOC) Gran Reserva

Producer: Faustino

Vintage: 2001

Grape: Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo

Alcohol content: 13.5%

Serving temperature: 16-18°

Price range: Mid-range