Review: Auguste Pirou 2004 Arbois

The low-down: In a category of its own, vin jaune is fermented in a barrel under a film of yeast, which results in a stronger wine (14%) and a distinct, pungent but fragrant smell. Think of it as white sherry without the sugar. The 620 ml sized bottle (a "Clavelin") is one of a handful of non-standard sized wine bottles permitted under EU law. Unlike other French wines, during the production process the barrels are not topped up after evaporation. Thus, so the urban legend goes, 620 ml represents what is left over from 1 liter after six years of ageing. Vin jaune is made 100% from the savagnin grape.

This wine is from Arbois in the Jura region of France and has ten years under its belt. We selected this mostly out of curiosity and hoping for an interesting diversion from the typical chardy/ sav blanc/ rieslings out there. Opinions on Jura vary widely from undrinkable to the greatest wine in the world!

The take: On appearance, golden brown and transparent. At 14% alcohol it is leggy, but the legs fall away quite quickly. On the nose, the alcohol is present (after ten years ageing) overlaid with honey, banana and toffee. With time, sandalwood. On the attack, sour, oaky, earthy with some walnut flavor. The texture is thicker, almost like olive oil. While fruit is present, it isn't sweet.

In closing: While the texture and flavor are unique and reveal a complex white, it is for us a little too potent.

Rating: 7 out of 10.

Fact corner:

Country: France

Region: Arbois (AOC)

Producer: Auguste Pirou

Vintage: 2004

Grape: Savagnin

Alcohol content: 14.0%

Serving temperature: n/a

Price range: Mid-range

#photo #review #white #france #midrange #2004 #658outof10